Lucemine® (3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid) is a stable Vitamin C derivative with powerful anti-pigmenting activity on the skin. It is the ally of effective anti-spot cosmetic formulations. Today, it reveals new biological antioxidant and anti-aging activities that are very trendy on the cosmetic market.
In a previous article, we presented Lucemine®, its stability and its anti-pigmentation effectiveness. Our team of biological experts has conducted new tests and demonstrated its protective and antioxidant properties for the skin.
ACTIVATION OF ANTIOXIDANT DEFENCES AND ADHESION GENES
Dermal fibroblasts (NHDF) and keratinocytes (NHEK), essential cells for skin structure and firmness, were treated with 0.5% Lucemine® for 24 hours. The expression of antioxidant defence and cell adhesion genes was measured by RT-qPCR. No stress was applied to these cells, the aim being to test the effects of Lucemine® on cells in their basal state.
Gene expression (Fluidigm RT-qPCR) in Fibroblasts (A) and Keratinocytes (NHEK) exposed to 0.5% Lucemine®.
Lucemine® activates the expression of Superoxide Dismutase, Heme Oxygenase and Catalase in dermal fibroblasts. These 3 enzymes are essential to protect the skin from oxidative stress. Similarly, Heme Oxygenase and Glutardoxin are activated in the keratinocytes of the epidermis. These results show that Lucemine® prepares the skin to fight against oxidative stress, whether intrinsic or extrinsic.
In keratinocytes, Lucemine® also activates genes involved in cell cohesion and adhesion to the extracellular matrix. These mechanisms promote interactions between cells, but also with the extracellular matrix for an overall restructuring effect. Cellular communication is also improved by these mechanisms, it is essential and a target of choice to fight effectively against skin aging.
REDUCTION OF OXYDATIVE STRESS IN SKIN CELLS
Dermal fibroblasts (NHDF) and keratinocytes (NHEK) were again treated with 0.5% Lucemine® or Vitamin C for 24 hours without applied stress. This time, basal oxidative stress was measured using a marker that interacts with a wide variety of Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS). ROS (or free radicals) are naturally generated by the body, so it is normal to find them in ‘resting’ cells. However, their quantity can be increased in a deleterious way by external stresses (UV, tobacco and alcohol consumption, pollution…). The increase of ROS in the body induces premature aging, particularly in the skin.
We demonstrate here the efficacy of Lucemine® on the reduction of ROS versus Vitamin C, known to be a very good antioxidant (but not stable in formulation).
Quantification of ROS in dermal fibroblasts (A) and epidermal keratinocytes (B) after treatment with Vitamin C or Lucemine® for 24h.
Lucemine® reduces the amount of ROS: -28% in dermal fibroblasts, and -35% in keratinocytes. It shows better results than Vitamin C.
REDUCTION OF INDUCED INFLAMMATION IN SKIN CELLS
After measuring the effects of Lucemine® on unstressed cells, we performed further tests on cells subjected to external stress inducing inflammation. Fibroblasts (NHDF) and keratinocytes (NHEK) were treated with 0.5% Lucemine® and exposed to UVA. UV light is a major contributor to inflammation and premature skin aging. Inflammatory mediators were analysed by a detection technique allowing the secretion of several proteins to be analysed in parallel (LegendPlexTM – Biolegend).
Quantification of inflammatory mediators in dermal fibroblasts (A) and epidermal keratinocytes (B) after exposure to UVA and treatment with 0.5% Lucemine® for 24h.
Lucemine® drastically reduces the activation of UVA-induced inflammatory mediators in skin cells. It even reduces their expression to a level below the basal (untreated) level.
All Sollice cosmetic actives
Sollice Biotech offers you a range of cosmetic active ingredients with varied actions
All our cosmetic ingredients are tested with the same rigour, in compliance with regulations. We research and demonstrate the robust biological activities we claim for our active ingredients.