Sollice Biotech offers an anti-pigmentating cosmetic active ingredient, a vitamin C derivative : LUCEMINE®. This active ingredient demonstrates the whitening activity of Vitamin C with unequalled stability.

Skin exposure to the sun and various internal factors, such as aging, induce melanogenesis, a biological process that synthesizes melanin, the skin pigment. Melanin protects DNA against UV rays within the epidermis but can also lead to the appearance of dark spots and a loss of homogeneity of the complexion. The cells involved in this process are melanocytes. Located in the basal layer of the epidermis, they produce melanin, which is then transferred to the keratinocytes and passes through to the skin’s surface.

Vitamin C as whitening cosmetic active ingredient

Vitamin C is a molecule well known for its anti-pigmenting properties (1, 2). It is able to inhibit melanization by interrupting the key stages of melanogenesis, but is not toxic to melanocytes. However, this molecule rarely shows its whitening effect due to its degradation in formula or on the surface of the skin.

Vitamin C is an unstable compound: it is sensitive to oxidation induced by heat, air, light… It is therefore easily degraded, especially when used in cosmetic formulations (3).

Our solution:
LUCEMINE®, that has solved the structural instability of vitamin C.
The structure of this vitamin C derivative ensures the stability of the compound and allows the lightening properties of vitamin C to be preserved in cosmetic products (4).

PROVEN HIGH STABILITY

Stability of LUCEMINE® versus Vitamin C

We tested the stability of our vitamin C derivative in the presence of an oxidizing compound and compared it to Vitamin C.

In low oxidizing conditions, Vitamine C and LUCEMINE® are stable. After a certain amount of oxidizing product, the Vitamin C solution is gradually degraded until the molecule disappears completely. LUCEMINE® maintains total structural stability under highly oxidizing conditions.

Stable vitamin C derivative
Stability of LUCEMINE® under pro-oxidant conditions compared to Vitamin C. The degradation of the two molecules in oxidative medium is followed by HPLC analysis. The results are expressed as a percentage of purity of the molecule solution.

MECHANISM OF ACTION

Inhibition of melanin biosynthesis

LUCEMINE® acts directly on the molecular process that causes melanogenesis. It inhibits melanization by up to 80%. At equal concentration, LUCEMINE® is more effective than vitamin C and inhibits melanin synthesis four times more than other derivatives.

Vitamin C derivative melanin
LUCEMINE® inhibits melanin biosynthesis. The melanin precursor DHICA has been irradiated by UV to induce polymerization. This melanin production was carried out in the presence of several vitamin C derivatives and LUCEMINE®. The melanin produced was quantified by absorbance at 405 nm to evaluate the inhibitory effect of the compounds.

Cellular inhibition of melanogenesis

Of all the vitamin C derivatives tested, LUCEMINE® is the most effective melanogenesis inhibitor .

Vitamin C derivative melanogenesis inhibition
LUCEMINE® reduces melanogenesis. Diagram of inhibition of melanogenesis on melanocytes after treatment with vitamin C and its derivatives, quantified by absorbance at 405nm.

“An anti-pigmentation cosmetic active ingredient,  a vitamin C derivative that preserves the stability of the molecule”

CLINICAL EFFICACY

LUCEMINE® reduces dark areas and spots at different concentrations and results in an anti-pigmenting effect. The effect of LUCEMINE® is dose-dependent: the more concentrated the active ingredient, the more reduced the pigmentation. LUCEMINE® used for 3 months reduces pigmentation by half (-54%).

Clinical study anti pigmentation cosmetic ingredient
LUCEMINE® reduces pigmentation. Evolution of pigmentation spots after 3 months of treatment, measured by Chromameter (A). Photos of the volunteer's face with stain detection before and after treatment with LUCEMINE® 2% (B).

Thanks to its high stability, LUCEMINE® offers all the benefits of vitamin C for effective formulations.

Sollice Biotech offers its customers an efficient and cost-effective product to create unique anti-pigment cosmetic products.

Sources
(1) Telang P.S , Vitamin C In Dermatology, Indian Dermatology Online Journal. 2013.
(2) Espinal-Perez L. E., Moncada B. And Castanedo-Cazares J. P., A Double-Blind Randomized Trial Of 5% Ascorbic Acid Vs. 4% Hydroquinone In Melasma, International Journal Of Dermatology. 2004.
(3) Gallarate M., Carlotti M. E., Trotta M. And Bovo S., On The Stability Of Ascorbic Acid In Emulsified Systems For Topical And Cosmetic Use, International Journal Of Pharmaceutics. 1999.
(4) Hsu J., 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid: A Stable, Vitamin C-Derived Agent For Skin Whitening, Cosmetics&Toiletries. 2013.

All Sollice Biotech's cosmetic actives

Sollice Biotech provides a large variety of cosmetic actives with a wide action range

All our cosmetic ingredients are tested with scientific rigor in respect of all applicable regulations. All our cosmetic claims are thoroughly researched and documented based on solid biological data.